How to ....
install custom push-switches
Bored with your case’s lifeless power and reset buttons?
Antony Leathershows you how to install custom push-switches
Every PC needs power and reset
buttons, yet they’ve hardly
changed since the first PCs went
on sale. They’re invariably just
plastic buttons with the most extravagant
being made of metal or in very rare cases
illuminated. Thankfully, there’s a plethora of
push switches, also known as anti-vandal
buttons, that can replace them, and also
control fans, lights or any other 12V devices.
There are several sizes and types available,
and they come in a range of illuminated
colours too. Installing them is easy and, if
you’re handy with a soldering iron, you can
use your case’s existing wires to connect the
switches to your motherboard.
 |
SELECT YOUR BUTTONS The buttons come in two sizes – 16mm and 19mm, which refers to the size of the hole you’ll need to cut into your case, rather than the size of the button itself. You’ll need to make sure you opt for a momentary switch for power and reset buttons, or a latching one to act as an on/off button for lights and fans. |
 |
CHOOSE CABLES If you have access to a soldering iron, you can use your case’s existing cables to wire your new buttons to your motherboard’s front panel headers. Alternatively, for a couple of quid, you can buy ready-made braided cable packs that include power and reset switch cables, and these don’t even need to be soldered to the switches. |
 |
PICK YOUR LOCATION While you can install switches in a side panel, we recommend just replacing your case’s existing buttons if possible. Our 16mm switches have a head diameter of just under 18mm, so you’ll need to make sure there’s enough room for them to sit side by side, especially if your original buttons are located close together |
 |
REMOVE E XISTING BUTTONS If your case has removable buttons, it’s usually fairly easy to get rid of them and install your own. If they’re part of a single-piece button and port assembly, you can usually cut away the buttons, but most cases have the ports and buttons bundled in two separate pieces, making it easy to replace them |
 |
DETACH CABLES If you plan to use your case’s existing cables, you’ll need to detach them from the buttons first. A soldering iron is good for this job, as it will leave you with a neat end to simply solder to your new ones. If this isn’t possible, then simply cut the wires and strip back the plastic so you can re-attach them |
 |
A PPLY MA SK IN G TA PE To protect your case while you’re drilling, apply masking tape to the area you want to install the switches. This should prevent any slips with the drill resulting in gashes in your paintwork, while making it clearer where you need to drill. |
 |
MARK UP HOLES Measure up the hole required for your switch and mark it onto your masking tape using a drawing compass or pencil. You’ll also need to mark the centre of the hole to drill a pilot hole, which will make drilling the larger one a little easier. |
 |
DRILL PILOT HOLE Before you start drilling, either remove all your hardware from your case, or tape newspaper over the area behind your drilling location, to catch any metal filings from the drilling. Use a 5mm drill bit to make a pilot hole in the centre of your markings. Apply light pressure and allow the drill to do the work. |
 |
CUT MA IN HOLE Switch to your 16mm or 19mm drill bit or hole cutter, and proceed to cut the hole. The pilot hole will help to keep the bit aligned. It will be quick and easy to cut into aluminium cases, but steel cases may take several minutes or more, so be armed with a corded drill or a well-charged battery for a cordless one. |
 |
FILE EDGES Whether you’re using a hole cutter or drill bit to deal with the larger hole, the edges will be rough. Even though the switch will largely obscure the edges, it’s still good practice to file it down a little, if only to prevent metal shards from becoming dislodged at a later date. |
 |
REMOVE LOCK ING RING Most switches use a large locking ring or nut that sits on a thread behind the button. You need to remove this first, as it fixes to the switch after you’ve passed the switch and cables through the cas |
 |
CONNECT NEW CABLES TO SWITCHES If you’re using replacement cables, it’s straightforward to attach them to the switches – just check with the wiring for your particular switch – instructions can usually be found online. For our samples, the outer two terminals are clearly marked positive and negative, and the switches light up as soon as you touch the correct wires. | |
 |
SOLDER ORIGINAL CABLES TO SWITCHES If you opt to use your case’s original cables, you just need to solder them onto the correct terminals. Strip off enough insulation to expose the wire at the end of the cables so that you have enough bare wire with which to work. |
 |
CHECK THE SWITCHES WORK Before you install the switches, power up your PC to make sure they work and are illuminated – you may need to dim the lights toensure this is the case. You can then disconnect them from your motherboard and install them. |
 |
PASS THROUGH CABLES Pass the cables through the hole and sit the switch on the surface of your case. The tricky part is now reaching underneath the hole and attaching the locking ring from the other side. Using pliers or a spanner can help here, as using only your fingers to tighten it might not secure it firmly enough |
 |
RECONNECT CABLES TO MOTHERBOARD With the switch securely located in the case, check the case for any stray metal fragments and use an air duster if necessary. You can then reconnect the cables to your motherboard’s front panel headers (these will be detailed in your motherboard manual) and enjoy your new switches. |
Labels: install custom push-switches
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]
<< Home